The Napa Report

Napa. What makes it so special anyhow?

In a word, Microclimate. Sure the land is rich and fertile, after all, it's California, but the particular geography of the valley creates prime grape growing conditions. Cool winds from the Pacific are channeled down the 30 mile long valley bringing cooler air and significant amounts of fog, taming the heat but still allowing significant sun to allow photosynthesis. Interestingly enough, the valley begins at a bay and ends at a volcano, Mt St. Helena to be precise. It's irregular growing terrain to say the least, tucked within the volcanic valley strip are numerous nooks, crannies, and crags that have proven premium areas for growing grapes. Mount Veeder and Stag's Leap are good examples. Grapes will grow just about anywhere, but to achieve intense and beautifully structured wines, the vines must be deprived of certain things, especially water, to intensify the fruit. The Napa valley is the perfect place to do just that.

When we think of California wine, we often think of Napa as the only significant production region, which is so far from the truth. Napa produces only about 4% of California's wine.

The Napa experience

I've traveled quite a bit in my 32 years, but until recently had never made it to California. Napa left me pleasantly surprised. I had heard stories about crowds and snobbishness, overpriced wines and impossible lines at restaurants. However, being early in the season and the fact that we toured mid-week really left us with a great impression of the region. There are no unsightly strip malls, fast food joints, or otherwise unsavory eyesores along the way which was very refreshing, even in the midst of such disposable wealth. In the entire Valley is just a series of vineyards and small towns that remind me of a more modern Europe than I would expect to find in California.

The valley itself has but 2 main roads dotted with numerous wineries, each road with its own unique character. Route 20 connects all of the small towns, is busier, and caters to larger wineries and sights such as Dean and Deluca and the Oakville Grocery. Running parallel to it is the 'Silverado Trail,' essentially a smaller, quainter road that is also chock full of wineries. I suggest going up one and returning down another until you get a feel for which suits your personality. I prefer the Silverado, but spent more time on Rt. 20.

The wineries and the people

I most enjoyed the unique extravagance of each winery from the themes (simple, to posh, to ridiculous, to downright homey) and how the environment seemed to draw cues from the wines themselves (or vice versa). It also seemed like everyone was from somewhere else, usually the Northeast, and all of them were total wine geeks at heart. I was in near bliss.

Quoting  Karen McNeil's Wine Bible (one of my favorite wine reference guides - now available at Attrezzi)  I think she sums up Napa in a nutshell:

'Critics say Napa valley has an ego. But what it really has is a gargantuan appetite for life and a palpable hunger for success. You can taste it in the wines.'

This statement reflects my experience. Napa wines are bold, adventurous, over the top, and extremely selfish in nature. Each producer is trying to make their own mark, trying less to produce the 'perfect' wine than to produce a wine that everyone will remember.

My quote for the day is as follows:

'The lives of the people in Napa evolve around three things: food, wine, and talking (perhaps gossiping) about food and wine. Not much else really seems to happen there.'

I soon realized that food and wine are ever so important - but I did miss the'diversity of New England where you can go from a Flo's Hot Dog to incredible Raw Oysters at Victory in a matter of minutes, cheap beer for the beach, and a fine wine at dinner. I did notice how our prices for both food and wine tend to top those out there.

This food & wine idealism is where the fine line between agriculture and excess is apparently crossed. Since there really is nothing much else to do in the Valley, people are constantly trying to set themselves apart, mostly so others can have something to talk about later that week. But this motivation truly seems to work as experienced some outstanding wine and cuisine along the way in a truly beautiful setting.

Napa is known for its outstanding Cabernet, but I found more interesting Chardonnay and Merlot than Cab. My theory is that the outstanding cabs are so incredibly expensive that they would never be poured in a standard tasting room, even to someone in the trade. Napa is infamous for bastardized Bordeaux blends (or even white blends) and these were the wines that left the greatest impression on me. Usually given proprietary names like - Trilogy, Opus One, or Conundrum- the blends are truly the high point of Napa wines.

The Districts of Napa

To further confuse things, Napa is broken down into individual growing areas called AVA - a (American Viticultural Areas) similar to the AC and DO levels of France and Italy, respectively. Such famous areas such as Atlas Peak, Mt. Veeder, Stags Leap and Mount Veeder - small AVA's  that I often confused as individual wineries that occasionally take the AVA name. Learning which of these AVA's are premium is usually as simple as checking the price on the back of the bottle. But what holds true in the Old world also stands in the new world. Just because it's Bordeaux doesn't necessarily mean it is good juice.

Onto my suggestions

These are the places I found most interesting, and in each description I'll briefly explain why. I definitely did not see all there is to see in the valley and as a rule avoided the larger mainstream wineries (BV, Coppola, Opus One) which to many, are the high points. Instead I focused on smaller more unique producers and searched for unique wines, great food, or pure beauty. Links to their websites are provided when available. So here we go:

Hendry Ranch

By far the best overall experience to be had was at Hendry Ranch, a small family style producer tucked in the woods not too far from the Hess Collection Winery on beautiful windy country roads. George Hendy himself (a scientist by trade who was involved with atom splitting) provided an intensive (scientific) education about winemaking, paying particular attention to the geography of his land, breaking it up into individual sub plots less than a few hundred feet in size. Each plot then had a specific grape variety and even specific grape clones - a result of years of research and data, to ensure optimal grapes. Though a small winery, the work involved was intensive, and really showed in the wines. As a result of this trip we now carry the Hendry 2002 Chardonnay (an Attrezzi wine of the month!) that is absolutely fantastic. We recently had a bottle down on the docks at Chauncey Creek - an untouchable pairing with a perfect hardshell lobster. This Chard experienced no malo-lactic fermentation (so no cloying butter flavors) and just a bit of toasty oak from French oak barrels. Aging on the Lees adds a wonderful flavor and texture. (If you don't recognize these terms check out my wine essentials class coming up!) Attrezzi also carries a Hendry 2001 Napa Valley 'Red Wine' an intense yet wonderful blend of Cab, merlot, Malbec, Petite Verdot, and Cab Franc.

Bell

Tell me something I didn't already know! Bell wines were on our shelves before my visit West (3 of them, Cab, Merlot, and Syrah - were a little Bell-centric!) and now I know why. This winery is small and intimate, extremely accommodating, friendly, and down to earth. Their wines are rich full, and have outstanding flavors with reasonable prices. The Syrah is quite simply one of the best I have ever had. A sip from the tank proves the upcoming year will be even better. If you're ever in the mood for a serious Napa wine without the hooplah, grab a Bell. You will be pleasantly surprised.

Duckhorn

This winery is mentioned because of it's sheer absolute beauty and first class presentation. Of course, the prices of their wine are indicative of their great taste. The winery and tasting room is by far the best I have seen, complete with individual tables and personalized tasting itineraries. You are escorted to a table, seated at hand crafted wooden stools, and taste from real crystal stemware with a fresh glass of water and stunning views. The wines, though pricey, are stunningly rich and complex. But watch out - tasting can drain your wallet quickly depending on the wines you choose. Highly recommended for the experience alone.

Ruston Family Vineyards

This is truly a small family operation. We tasted wines at the Ruston Family's modest dining room table, complete with their children. We enjoyed the wine while one of the young daughters demonstrated how to enjoy yogurt through a straw (you don't get much more family than that). Not to mention later running into them at the local store. There is no tasting room to speak of, they winery is just not yet large enough at this point and still a family operation. We at Attrezzi carry two of the Ruston family wines, (a Sauvignon Blanc in a traditional French style with a dry fruitiness and dry finish,) and my personal favorite, the '2002 Cuvee Simone' (Simone being one of the daughters) a blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petite Verdot. Again, the blends are really amazing these days.

Rombauer.

Rombauer wines have always been a staple of Attrezzi. They make the quintessential rich buttery 'coconut cream pie' Napa Chardonnay that we keep on the shelves at all times. If you like the big buttery luscious Chardonnays, the Rombauer is for you. They also make a fabulous easy sipping Merlot and a tightly structured Cab that all are top notch that we carry on occasion. If you are fortunate enough to make friends with the folks in the tasting room, you may be lead below the winery where miles of tunnels have been dug to create one of the areas only underground wine storage caves. The tasting room is friendly and intimate, and the wines have been heralded by many.

Van Der Hayden

A Napa Valley institution of sorts, the Van Der Hayden winery is open till 6PM, so it is always a great final stop for the day. As you drive up the long driveway it seems you land in rural Vermont. The Family converses under a tent, enjoying picnic style snacks and fun in the sun. Small children and cats run free everywhere. The tasting room itself is a small dusty shack chock full of Van Der Hayden propaganda. Tastings are by appointment only, but if you sign the guestbook, you've just made an appointment. VanDer Hayden makes what they claim is the only true Late Harvest Cabernet Sauvignon by leaving the grapes on the vines till practically Christmas. Be warned, they are expensive. Their Chard and standard Cabs also claim a little bit of cult status, and upon our introduction we were told that Attrezzi had the only VanDer Hayden from 1998 outside of California, in New Hampshire of all places. I am not sure the validity of this statement, but if you want it - we've got it - 4 remaining bottles of their 1998 Cabernet at $150 a pop. They are also sold for around $200 at the vineyard. (Editor's note - we're down to 2 bottles in 2006!)

Vincent Arroyo

Tiny, unmapped, and extremely low key the Vincent Arroyo winery is a must visit destination - based solely on the wines. The tasting room consists of a barrel and wines, but the knowledge of the staff and a passion for the wine is astounding. Unfortunately for us, the wine is so sought after it is primarily sold on futures. In other words you're looking at a barrel that may someday end up bottled and on your table - but you have to pay for it now!. A handful of different wines and vintages, and a number of archived 'library' wines are available in the small wine shop. Find it at the northernmost portion of Napa off a small dirt road. You won't be disappointed. It was here I found the quintessential Napa Cabernet I was seeking since arriving in Napa.

Hess Collection Winery

Hess is included not so much for the wines but for the winery itself. A fabulous Art gallery and garden are the high points here, along with the secluded ness of the location and the fun of the journey hunting for it. The wines are first class, but it's the setting that truly makes Hess stand out.

Plumpjack

Plumpjack is a cult winery, and their wines are absolutely huge (and expensive!). Incredibly bold and rich, the winemaking style is no holds barred and has gotten some great press. The tasting room is quaint yet cool, and the view from the back porch is stunning.

Honig

Honig defines the small Napa winery. Laid back, as organic as possible, and mostly concerned about having fun with wine (check out their hilarious e- postcards) the folks at Honig make you feel like friends right from the beginning. We've continuously carried their Reserve Sauvignon Blanc as it is one of my favorite white wines on the planet, and no w I understand why. Dry and slightly herbaceous with great fruit tucked inside, it's a perfect wine for Summertime cuisine. They also make a glorious dessert wine after they 'discovered' the presence of botrytis in a corner of their vineyard. Try it, it's to die for. But be warned, there's very little made!

Acorn (Healdsburg, Sonoma)

I only spent a day outside of Napa, and aside from beautiful scenery and a fun stop at the Jim Town Store the only winery that blew me away was again wines that I was already familiar with - the Acorn line. We tried the 2002 flight while we were there and were amazed at the complexity and flavor of the latest vintage. Acorn focuses on field blending and viticulture (the vines themselves) that lend extraordinary flavor and complexity to their wines. We have the Zin, the Sangiovese (the best Californian Sangio I have ever had), the Syrah, and a Dolcetto to boot. The 2001 Syrah and the 2002 Sangio are debatably my favorite, depending on my mood. They are truly must try wines and are difficult to find.

Wermuth Winery.

Wow. What a stop for those who appreciate the little things in life that make people unique. This tiny plot of land is home to two wine varieties generally not associated with Napa: Grenache and Columbard. The tasting room reminds me of my grandparents toolshed, and owner/winemaker Ralph Wermuth is a fascinating gentleman who reminds me of an Elder Tommy Chong from Cheech and Chong films. We had read in our guidebook that the man loathed technology, choosing to do all his work by hand with manual presses and the like. We experienced his aversion to technology first hand while watching him struggle with the telephone, eventually leaving it on the tasting room counter totally oblivious to the off the hook signal. My suggestion - pay with cash not credit! Fascinated by geography, he was great fun to speak with. Oh, and the wines? They're a great price and are interesting to say the least. The best part - Ralph signs every bottle before your eyes. This winery really breaks up the monotony that Napa can become and reminds us what grape growing is all about -a passion.

Casa Nuestra

This winery is also a bit off the beaten path, run by a civil rights lawyer/hippie at heart, the tasting room is decorated with 70's style memorabilia. It's the only place I saw the likes of Jimi Hendrix adorning a winery wall. Incense is the pervasive aroma in and out of the small tasting room. Fully sustainable and organic Casa Nuestra really creates some wines with a real kick. Try the Cab Franc and enjoy the good humor from the staff.

And the journey must end.

And that does it for the Attrezzi Wine Club Napa Report. I would love to hear from anyone else who has been and am always willing to answer questions about those who may be on their way. Hope you enjoyed it!

Until next time,

Rich (and all your friends at Attrezzi)